WHEN YOU DON'T WANT TO STAND OUT ON THE SIDEWALK

New York City...Babylon-on-the Hudson? Sin City? Not anymore; or at least not since April 10, 1995, in our restaurants. You can't smoke anymore in New York City restaurants.

Ah, but of course in some restaurants, you can. And that's why I'm putting up this home page. We who both smoke and appreciate fine dining (out) need to know where we can go to experience both of these pleasures. I'll start out with some places I know about. Then it's up to you to tell me about the places you know. I'll see that they're added to this currently meager list.

I TRULLI

(27th St. between Park Avenue and Lex; 481-7372): Really great Apulian cuisine with a good dozen smoking-allowed tables in a spacious area adjacent to the bar; also a beautiful courtyard for when the weather is nice. Too new to be in the latest Zagat's, but I'd rate it 22-22-24-$40.

MERCHANTS

(85th St. on Columbus; 721-3689): Nifty dark wood-paneled wine bar/ coffee bar with a short but surprisingly good menu. (They also make a good Martini.) There are couches and easy chairs in addition to the tables and pretty much the entire place is open to smokers. Merchants has a place on 17th St., too, which is pretty much identical. (Zagat: 13-20-15-$22)

PARK AVALON

(225 Park Avenue South, between 18th and 19th Sts., 533-2500): This is one of my favorite places, a very sophisticated New York City kind of place, very airy, with interesting nouvelle American food and, excuse me, gorgeous waitresses. They've got a big smoking section. (Zagat: 20-20-17-$32)

LA MANGEOIRE

(1008 Second Avenue, between 53rd and 54th Sts., 759-7086): This is a very dependable French bistro, with a loyal clientele; everyone there seems to be a regular. But don't let that put you off; you'll be treated like a regular on your first visit. (Zagat: 18-18-18-$37)

LANDMARK TAVERN

(46th St. and 11th Avenue, 757-8595): Well worth a visit, especially pre- or post-Broadway show. This is another place that's been around forever. The food is Irish and good -- and that's not a contradiction-in-terms. This is without doubt one of the best bars in town. (Zagat:16-19-17-$27)

DRAKE'S DRUM SMOKER'S INN

(1744 2nd Avenue; 289-7510): The name would seem to say it all. I haven't been there yet, so have no idea about the food, but I do know from a recent piece in the Time s that the owner removed three dozen seats or so to get down to the under-35 seating rule to allow for legal smoking. This place is good for at least one visit if only to honor the owner's good intentions.

I haven't been to either of these places, but they advertise themselves as smoker-friendly:

OG (507 East 6th St., 477-4649) PROVINCIAL KITCHEN (141 Avenue A at 9th St., 529-6907)

NOW IT'S UP TO YOU: Send me your list, play restaurant reviewer, and we'll build this site as a great public service to ourselves and to the many American and international travelers who are likely to find themselves quite disappointed by Babylon-on-the-Hudson's mean-spirited moralism. Email me at ken_hittel@nyl.e-mail.com.

SO WHO IS DOCTOR PUFF? Doctor Puff is a whole lot of things but, most relevantly here, he's a smoker, a Creative Director at a major life insurer (!), and a PhD. in Philosophy and Political Science from the Graduate Faculty of the New School.